This is the number 1 question that I get! After experimenting with different types of pens, I have found Rotring Rapidographs and I think I am here to stay! I use the .1 and the .13 size nib and almost always use black ink. They are more expensive than most of the other pens on the market but they are totally worth it. They are highly technical pens and every part of them is replaceable. There are ink cartridges (they come in packs of 3). I almost never have an issue with clogging and if I have, the customer service is incredible. They have a 2 year warranty and if you show them your receipt, they will send you a brand new pen for free!
If you are just starting out with stippling, I highly recommend starting with a marker-like pen. The first pens I used when I started stippling were the Sakura Pigma Micron. Because they are a little thicker and felt-like, these don’t “slip” as easily as the Rotrings and are perfect for getting your hand use to making the dots. Rotrings are like drawing with a needle, the Microns give you a little more stability to start out. The Microns are not refillable, when it runs out you use a new one. They are also more affordable than the Rotrings!
After a couple of years with the Microns I moved to Copic Multiliner SPs. These are a little more technical and smaller than the Microns, have replaceable parts and are slightly more expensive than Microns. They have replaceable ink cartridges and replaceable nibs but they still have the “marker-like” quality that prevents the “slipping” that I mentioned above. They’re a nice middle step between the stability of the Micron and the precision of the Rotring.
I have been sticking with Strathmore 500 series Bristol since I began taking my art seriously. I always use the Plate surface because I prefer the smooth texture, but that is just a personal preference and I know quite a few stippling artists who prefer using vellum which has a texture to it. There are so many good papers on the market, Strathmore is just something I chose in the beginning and have been happy with it ever since. The key to picking your paper is making sure that it is Archival quality and Acid Free. This will prevent yellowing over the years. Anything that the paper comes into contact with should also be acid free because even other non-acid free papers touching your drawing could yellow it. Yikes!
I do everything I can on my side to ensure that the piece of artwork you receive is archival and therefore, will last as long as a piece of artwork can. But framing an archival piece can either protect the piece so that you will have it for generations, or it could do the opposite and speed up its deterioration. Framing is everything!
The most important part of the frame is the glass. Even if you use a store-bought frame for the artwork, make sure that you find UV Protected glass. UV rays (think, sunny room in your house) will cause the ink and the artwork to fade over time. Having protection glass will prevent this from happening by blocking out those rays.
Matting is also important because you need to make sure that you are using an acid free mat. Like I mentioned with the paper, having a non-acid free mat sitting on top of your acid-free paper will cause the paper to yellow.
I always like to suggest that people use a professional framer if they’re investing in any artwork. Finding a framer who is familiar with framing art is also extremely important. The woman I use for my frames has taught me so much over the years and she also has offered up ideas that I never would have thought of before.
If you are spending so much on a piece of art, be it a print or an original, it is an investment and you want to make sure that, that piece of work will last forever.